Transformation of narrowband wavetrains of surface gravity waves passing over a bottom step

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Abstract

The problem of transformation of quasimonochromatic wavetrains of surface gravity waves with narrow spatial-temporal spectra on the bottom shelf is considered in the linear approximation. By means of numerical modeling, the transmission and reflection coefficients are determined as functions of the depth ratio and wave number (frequency) of an incident wave. The approximation formulae are proposed for the coefficients of wave transformation. The characteristic features of these formulae are analyzed. It is shown that the numerical results agree quite satisfactorily with the proposed approximation formulae. © 2014 EDP Sciences.

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Giniyatullin, A. R., Kurkin, A. A., Semin, S. V., & Stepanyants, Y. A. (2014). Transformation of narrowband wavetrains of surface gravity waves passing over a bottom step. Mathematical Modelling of Natural Phenomena, 9(5), 73–82. https://doi.org/10.1051/mmnp/20149505

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