Breaking-wave induced pressure and acceleration on a clifftop boulder

Abstract

The movements of some massive clifftop boulders, once thought to have been caused by tsunami, have been reattributed to storm waves in several recent papers. However, the precise wave-impact modes and transport mechanisms are unknown. We present preliminary linear acceleration, pressure and displacement data recorded by a scale clifftop boulder impacted by a focused breaking wave in a laboratory flume. The 8 kg boulder was placed atop a 0.25 m high platform and struck with a breaking wave of 0.34 m amplitude. Wave focus position was varied from 0.8 m fore of the platform to 0.27 m aft of the platform to alter the breaking crest shape and wave impact type while maintaining total wave spectral energy. Pressure and acceleration time series measurements from within the boulder show distinct impact types across focus positions. All impacts produced boulder displacement, ranging from 5 mm to 42 mm (0.15 m to 1.3 m at full scale, assuming Froude scaling). The largest boulder pressures were recorded when the wave crest and trough struck the boulder at the same position (flip-through). The largest boulder displacements were measured when high pressures and long impact durations occurred simultaneously and wave focusing was close to flip-through.