An heuristic model of wave height distribution in surf zone.

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Abstract

In the paper an heuristic model is developed by employing the simplest formulation, that is, an eddy viscosity assumption. In order to construct the model, two limiting conditions were taken into account, namely, (a) wave breaking on a constant depth beach and (b) wave breaking on a uniformly sloping beach. These are shown to be well described by the model.

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Mizuguchi Chuo Univ., M. (1981). An heuristic model of wave height distribution in surf zone. IN: PROC. SEVENTEENTH COASTAL ENGNG. CONF., (SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA: MAR.23-28, 1980), 1, New York, U.S.A., Am. Soc. Civ. Engrs., 1981, Part 1, Chapter 15, 278–289. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v17.15

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