Plant-Based Sunscreen Emulgel: UV Boosting Effect of Bilberry and Green Tea NaDES Extracts

Abstract

Natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) were employed for the extraction of bilberry and green tea leaves. This study explored the incorporation of these NaDES extracts into various carrier systems: hydrogels, emulsions, and emulgels stabilized with hydroxyethyl cellulose or xanthan gum. The results demonstrated that, when combined with synthetic UV filters, the NaDES extracts significantly enhanced the SPF and improved the antioxidant properties of the formulation. Although NaDES extracts cannot fully replace synthetic UV filters (homosalate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and benzophenone-4), they can serve as effective UV boosters, significantly enhancing the SPFs of formulations containing UV filters. Hence, the SPF of the formulation could be improved without increasing the concentrations of synthetic filters. Moreover, NaDES extracts, unlike UV filters, significantly increased the antioxidant potential of the formulations. Among the carriers, hydrogels with xanthan gum and emulgels with hydroxyethyl cellulose achieved the highest SPFs when containing both NaDES extracts and synthetic filters. A texture analysis further revealed that the NaDES extracts positively impacted the mechanical properties of the formulations by increasing their cohesiveness, thus enhancing their physical stability under mechanical pressure. These findings pave the way for further research into NaDES-based formulations, including in vivo testing, to optimize and confirm their efficacy on human skin and validate NaDES extracts as eco-friendly ingredients in cosmetics, with antioxidant and UV boosting potential.