High-height long-period ocean waves generated by a severe storm in the Northeast Pacific Ocean during February 1983.

Abstract

The paper documents and describes the meteorological situation causing unusual wave conditions, and the wave conditions themselves, that occurred in the N.E. Pacific Ocean, January to March 1983. The wave conditions were measured by 8 data buoys and showed significant wave heights up to 12.9 m; an uncommon feature of the wave spectra is the considerable energy at long periods of 20 to 25 s. The paper describes how measurements could be used to improve weather forecasts for the S. California coast. Long period storm generated swell was measured at the northern buoys approximately 24 to 36 hours before its arrival at the southern buoys. (from paper)