Recent Progress in Fermentation of Asteraceae Botanicals: Sustainable Approaches to Functional Cosmetic Ingredients

Abstract

The cosmetics industry is experiencing dynamic growth, which poses significant environmental challenges, primarily due to the accumulation of cosmetic ingredients in aquatic and soil ecosystems. In response, sustainable solutions aligned with the principles of the circular economy and the concept of “clean beauty” are increasingly sought. One promising approach is the use of bioferments obtained through the fermentation of plant raw materials from the Asteraceae family as alternatives to conventional extracts in cosmetic formulations. This literature review provides up-to-date insights into the biotechnological transformation of Asteraceae plants into cosmetic bioferments, with particular emphasis on fermentation processes enabling enzymatic hydrolysis of glycosylated flavonoids into aglycones, followed by their conversion into low-molecular-weight phenolic acids. These compounds exhibit improved local skin penetration (i.e., higher local bioavailability within the epidermal barrier) compared to their parent glycosides, thereby enhancing antioxidant activity. The analysis includes evidence-based data on the enzymatic hydrolysis of glycosidic flavonoids into free aglycones and their subsequent conversion into low-molecular-weight phenolic acids, which exhibit improved antioxidant potential compared to unfermented extracts. Furthermore, this narrative review highlights the role of lactic acid bacteria and yeast in producing bioferments enriched with bioactive metabolites, including lactic acid (acting as a natural moisturizing factor and preservative), while emphasizing their biodegradability and contribution to minimizing the environmental impact of cosmetics. This review aims to provide a comprehensive perspective on the technological, dermatological, and environmental aspects of Asteraceae-based bioferments, outlining their potential as sustainable and functional ingredients in modern cosmetics.