Morphodynamics of carbonate beaches in the Yucatán Peninsula

Abstract

The concept of beach morphodynamics was used to classify the swash zone of carbonate sandy beaches in the central part of the state of Yucatán (Mexico). Several topobathymetric profiles were analyzed to determine the slope of the swash zone, shape parameter A of Dean’s model, and shoreline advance and recession. Grain size and wave data were also analyzed to determine the dimensionless fall velocity (Ω). The slope of the swash zone was in general greater during the tropical storm season than during the northerly wind (Nortes) season. Mean profile values according to shape parameter A ranged from –0.186 to –0.074. The Ω values indicated intermediate beaches with a reflective tendency. Shoreline change relative to beach width helped to identify and rank security levels of beach segments.