Topo-bathymetric behaviour of a beach controlled by a groyne field and a dune-seawall backshore

Abstract

The advances in morphodynamics numerical modelling and the free availability of such updated models have made XBeach a powerful tool to predict the hydrodynamic and morphologic processes on sandy coasts. This paper addresses the impact of the sea-structure-sediments interactions in the morphological evolution of a coastal stretch which undergoes erosion and overtopping despite having a combined groyne field-dune-seawall defence scheme. Preliminary tests, tailored to conclude on the model mode-version to be applied in the case study, evidence the importance of considering the NH mode. After calibrated and validated, the model was applied for a set of cases to compute and discuss the effect of the individual defence scheme structural elements and the hydrodynamic driving factors, namely the wave energy and obliquity and the tidal range, on the morphodynamics. The results revealed that the seawall aggravates the erosion of the beach, despite being essential in the protection against overtopping and coastline retreat, and that the present configuration of the groyne field does not provide enough protection at the downdrift part of the stretch. The knowledge acquired can support the interpretation of the topo-bathymetric behaviour in similar coastal defence schemes existent worldwide.