Potassium-Azeloyl-Diglycinate BB-Cream formulation with Triethanolamine variation, and its effects on In-Vitro SPF stability and values

Abstract

Many cosmetic innovations can be used as sunscreens, one of which is Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate which is a new generation ingredient of an innovative water-soluble molecule that normalizes sebum activity and brightens the skin. One of the cosmetic products favored by women is the beauty balm cream (BB cream) is a multifunctional cosmetic product such as foundation, moisturizer, and sunscreen in a lighter and more practical shape. To obtain a good cream base, the use and selection of the emulgator is crucial. One type of emulgator that is often used, is Triethanolamine. This research was conducted to compare the variation in the amount of Triethanolamine as the emulgator in the manufacture of Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate BB Cream, which would be compared to the stability of its physical and chemical properties during the storage period, using the cycling test method, hydration power test, and in-vitro SPF test. The difference in the concentration of the triethanolamine in each formula affects the adhesion, the viscosity, and pH increase, yet the spreadability decreases. The storage at a temperature of 4±2°C and 40±2°C affects the results of the chemical properties test on the BB Cream. The Potassium-Azeloyl-Diglycinate BB Cream is known to have the SPF value and there is a decrease in the value after cycling test. The Formula 2 with 4% TEA concentration has the best stability of physical and chemical properties. The Potassium-Azeloyl-Diglycinate BB Cream Formula 2 is known to affect humidity.