Chemical Derivatization and Paper Spray Ionization Mass Spectrometry for Fast Screening of Retinoic Acid in Cosmetics

Abstract

As a prescription drug, retinoic acid is listed as a banned cosmetic additive in the EU and China regulations. Currently, spectrophotometric methods, including thin-layer chromatography (TLC), high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), and HPLC–MS/MS, are commonly used for the determination of retinoic acid. As these conventional methods require complex pretreatment and are time-consuming, chemical derivatization combined with paper spray ionization mass spectrometry was developed for the fast detection of retinoic acid in cosmetics. N,N-dimethylpiperazine iodide (DMPI) was utilized as a derivatization reagent. Carboxylic acid in retinoic acid was derivatized to carry a positive charge and was subjected to mass spectrometry analysis. Results showed that compared with non-derivatized compounds, the detection limit was increased by about 50 times. The linearity in the range of 0.005–1 μg·mL−1 was good. The limit of detection (LOD) was 0.0013 μg·mL−1, and the limit of quantification (LOQ) was 0.0043 μg·mL−1. The recoveries of spiked samples were in the range of 95–105%, and the RSDs were below 5%. Derivatization and paper spray ionization MS render a quick, sensitive, and accurate method for the detection of retinoic acid in a complex matrix.