Mass transport in progressive waves of permanent type.

Abstract

The authors derive theoretical formulations of mass transport velocity for progressive waves of permanent type. A new wave flume, equipped with orifices for the natural return of water flow was constructed for the verification of mass transport velocity, since it it submitted that wave reflection occurs at the end of the normal wave tank which is generally of finite length. It was concluded that the observed direction of mass transport is the same as that of waves propagating on the water surface. (from paper)