AN ANALYSIS OF CROSS-SHORE PROFILE EVOLUTION OF A SAND AND A COMPOSITE SAND-GRAVEL BEACHES

Abstract

In this paper, cross-shore morphodynamic evolution of a sand and sand-gravel composite beach, are compared and contrasted used historic surveys of beach profiles. The differential behavior of cross-shore morphodynamics at a range of time scales covering event-scale dynamics up to intra-annual scale variability are investigated and discussed. The application of equilibrium concept to both beach types is explored through Dean's equilibrium profile and Vellinga's beach erosion profile. Variability of cross-shore profile dynamics are quantified and discussed through bulk statistical analysis. Multi-scale morphodynamic trends are determined using Empirical Orthogonal Eigenfunction (EOF) analysis. The above analysis enables to recognise failure mechanism of each beach type during a storm.