Made in Italy by Chinese: fashionability and transnational Chinese entrepreneurs

Abstract

This article delves into China’s role within global capitalism through the stories of Chinese immigrant entrepreneurs in the Italian fashion industry. Moving beyond the state-centrism and methodological nationalism prevalent in Chinese communication studies and fashion studies, this research underscores the intertwined development paths of the Italian and Chinese fashion industries. Probing into the operations of Chinese apparel manufacturers in Prato, Italy, the article indicates how they strategically sourced from both nations and built original brands to upgrade their position within global value chains. Their position straddling two countries, however, also exposes them to a distinct set of vulnerabilities, including national and racial discrimination and a dearth of substantial external financial support. Through the lens of grassroots immigrant entrepreneurs, the article challenges the cultural essentialism tied to country-of-origin labels and presents a fresh viewpoint to scrutinize and complicate the existing narrative about global China. Situating the Chinese apparel industry in Prato in the ongoing transformation of the world economy, the article reveals how the international frictions concerning China’s rise often reflect the deep-seated global economic hierarchies and the shared tribulations of late-developing countries.