Climbing-specific fitness profile predicts performance in recreational climbers

Abstract

– Climbing performance is closely associated with finger flexor strength and endurance. Given the growing popularity of climbing, providing coaches with reliable reference values is essential for optimizing training prescriptions for recreational climbers. This study evaluated the isometric strength and endurance of finger flexors in recreational climbers of different ability levels and investigated their relationship with climbing performance. A total of 126 male participants (30 non-climbers, 30 low-grade, 36 intermediate, and 30 advanced) were assessed according to the IRCRA scale. Measurements included maximum hanging time on a 25 mm ledge, hand grip strength, pinch strength, and body composition. Maximum hanging time showed significant differences between groups and a strong correlation with climbing performance (r = 0.72), as did climbing experience (r = 0.70). Relative handgrip and pinch strength (normalized to body mass) showed moderate correlations with sport climbing (r = 0.41) and bouldering (r = 0.48). Maximum hanging time emerged as a robust objective marker for distinguishing ability levels and monitoring finger flexor adaptations in recreational climbers.