Abstract
A simple model of the transition zone in which breaking waves undergo change from oscillatory, irrotational motion to highly rotational turbulent motion with some particle translation is presented. A simple linear growth model is used for the surface roller area development, and a semi empirical model for the variation of the wave shape factor. The decrease in wave height and the width of the transition region are calculated for all breaker types on plane beaches or those with monotonically decreasing depth.
Cite
CITATION STYLE
Basco, D. R., & Yamashita, T. (1987). Toward a simple model of the wave breaking transition region in surf zones. IN: PROC. TWENTIETH INT. CONF. ON COASTAL ENGINEERING, (TAIPEI, TAIWAN: NOV. 9-14, 1986), B.L. EDGE (ED.), II, New York, U.S.A., Am. Soc. Civ. Engrs., 1987, Part II, Chapter 72, 955–970. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.72
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