Non-aqueous salt-free reverse micellar dyeing of cotton fabrics with reactive dyes: a study of secondary alcohol ethoxylate (SAE)-based non-ionic surfactants with different properties

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Abstract

The suitability and dyeing performance of SAE-based biodegradable surfactants of different properties as the building block for reverse micelle formation and functioning as dye carrier for dyeing of cotton fabric in non-aqueous octane medium are investigated. Morphology of the dye encapsulated reverse micelles formed by these surfactants is examined by transmission electron microscopy. The images show that SAE-based surfactants of different properties form reverse micelles of different shapes. Dyeing of cotton fabrics is conducted with the use of reverse micelles of different morphologies as dye carrier. The dyeing, colourfastness and tensile properties of the dyed samples are evaluated and compared with fabrics dyed in conventional water-based system. Samples dyed with Tergitol 15-S-12 (TS12) surfactants achieved the highest colour Yield and the lowest reflectance percentage while Tergitol 15-S-20 (TS20)-dyed samples obtained excellent colour levelness. Poor fabric levelness was found when Tergitol 15-S-7 (TS7) and Tergitol 15-S-9 (TS9) surfactants were used. SAE-based surfactants with optimal moles of ethylene oxide and hydrophilic-lipophilic balance value achieve the best dyeing effect on cotton fabric.

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Tang, Y. L. A., Law, H. S., Jin, S., Lee, C. H., Yu, J., Wang, Y., & Kan, C. W. (2025). Non-aqueous salt-free reverse micellar dyeing of cotton fabrics with reactive dyes: a study of secondary alcohol ethoxylate (SAE)-based non-ionic surfactants with different properties. Cellulose, 32(15), 9129–9150. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10570-025-06745-y

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