Semi-Analytical Model for the Evaluation of Shoreline Recession Due to Waves and Sea Level Rise

Abstract

The climate change process is leading to an increase in the sea level and the storm intensity. The associated shoreline recession can damage coastal facilities and also beaches protected by submerged/emerged breakwaters whose defense action can become ineffective. The application of cross-shore numerical models does not allow the performance of long-term analyses. In this paper, a semi-analytical model for the evaluation of shoreline recession due to waves and sea-level rise for free and protected beaches is proposed. The model is an extension of the Dean’s approach in which some limitations on the beach profile are overcome and the effects of breakwaters on the wave height (wave transmission) and on the water level (piling-up) are considered. The model takes into account a wide range of parameters for wave, sea level, beach profile, and breakwater characteristics. Among the breakwater parameters, the freeboard and the berm width are found to mainly affect the shoreline recession. For submerged breakwaters, an optimal value of the freeboard can be computed depending on the sea level and the offshore wave characteristics. The results of the model are then used to find prediction relations of the shoreline recession, with r2 > 0.99, for both free and protected beaches, depending on the main hydrodynamic/geometrical characteristics.