Nonlinear four-wave interactions and freak waves

Abstract

Four-wave interactions are shown to play an important role in the evolution of the spectrum of surface gravity waves. This fact follows from direct simulations of an ensemble of ocean waves using the Zakharov equation. The theory of homogeneous four-wave interactions, extended to include effects of nonresonant transfer, compares favorably with the ensemble-averaged results of the Monte Carlo simulations. In particular, there is good agreement regarding spectral shape. Also, the kurtosis of the surface elevation probability distribution is determined well by theory even for waves with a narrow spectrum and large steepness. These extreme conditions are favorable for the occurrence of freak waves.