THE GASTRONOMIC BORDER OF CHOLULA, PUEBLA: BETWEEN GENTRIFICATION AND TOURISTIFICATION

Abstract

In this paper we show some tensions displayed at the foodscapes of Cholula (Mexico). Based on a qualitative approach through semi structured interviews, participant observation and media content analysis, we aim to show that the existence of a culinary border enables two different foodscapes framed by several interests. Thus, we state that the culinary border stimulates two opposite phenomena that shows the contrast in the assembly of the local foodscapes. One the one hand, the aim of conservation of the foodscape due to a tourism intention that appeals narratives and discourses about heritage and traditionality; on the other hand, the boost of a culinary cosmopolitanism that incentivizes food gentrification processes that shown the particularities of the food modernity.